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If you're like most
people, purchasing a home is the biggest investment you'll ever
make. If you're considering buying a home, you're likely aware of
the complexity of the endeavor. Because of the numerous factors to
consider when purchasing a home, it's important to prepare as best
you can. Some common home-buying principles and caveats are
presented here for your consideration. By keeping them in mind,
you'll help create a successful and more enjoyable experience. These
Top Ten lists are by no means exhaustive. Since your home could cost
you 25 to 40 percent of your gross income, it's important to conduct
research, ask questions and study the process carefully.
Looking
for a home without being pre-approved. As a potential buyer competing for a property,
you'll have a better chance of getting your offer accepted by
being as prepared as possible. Consider this hierarchy of
preparedness:
-
Neither
pre-qualified nor pre-approved
-
Pre-qualified
-
Pre-approved
The benefits available
at each level can be easily understood when viewed from the
seller's perspective. Imagine you're a seller in receipt of
multiple offers to purchase your property. A complete stranger
(buyer) is asking you to take your property off the market for at
least the next two to three weeks while they apply for a loan. As
the seller, lets consider the type of buyer you'd prefer to deal
with. We can help you with your home search.
Neither
pre-qualified nor pre-approved. This buyer provides no evidence that they can afford to purchase
your property. You may wonder how serious they are since they're
not at least pre-qualified. Pre-qualified This buyer has met with
a mortgage broker (or lender) and discussed their situation. The
buyer has informed the broker regarding their income, expenses,
assets and liabilities. The broker may also have seen their credit
report. The buyer provided you with a letter from the broker
stating an opinion of what the buyer can afford. Pre-approved This
buyer has provided a broker written evidence of income, expenses,
assets, liabilities and credit. All information has been verified
by a lender. As a result, much of the paperwork for this buyer's
loan has been completed. This buyer will probably be able to close
quickly. They provide you with a letter (pre-approval certificate)
from the lender. You're as certain as possible that this buyer can
close. As a potential buyer, you can see that being pre-approved
will give you the best chance of getting your offer accepted. This
is critical in a competitive situation.
Making
verbal agreements. If you're asked
to sign a document containing instructions contrary to your verbal
agreements--don't! For example, the seller verbally agrees to
include the washing machine in the sale, but the written purchase
contract excludes it. The written contract will override the
verbal contract. More importantly, your state may require that
contracts for the sale of real property be in writing. Do not
expect oral agreements to be enforceable.
Choosing
a lender just because they have the lowest rate. While the rate is important, consider the total
cost of your loan including the APR , loan fees, discount and
origination points. When receiving a quote from a lender or
broker, insist that the discount points (charged by the lender to
reduce the interest rate) be distinguished from origination points
(charged for services rendered in originating the loan). The cost
of the mortgage, however, shouldn't be your only criterion. Have
confidence that the company you select is reputable and will
deliver the loan with the terms and costs they promised. If in the
final hours of the transaction you determine that the lender has
suddenly increased their profit margin at your expense, you won't
have time to start again with a different lender. Ask family and
friends for referrals. Interview prospective mortgage companies. We
can help you with your home search.
Not
receiving a Good Faith Estimate.
Within three business days after the broker or lender receives
your loan application, you must receive a written statement of
fees associated with the transaction. This is both the law and the
best way to determine what you'll pay for your loan. Bring the
Good Faith Estimate (GFE) with you when you sign loan documents.
You should not be expected to pay fees
which are substantially different from those contained in your
GFE.
Not
getting a rate lock in writing.
When a mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get
a written statement detailing the interest rate, the length of the
rate lock, and program details.
Using a
dual agent --i.e. an agent who represents the buyer and the seller
in the same transaction. Buyers and
sellers have opposing interests. Sellers want to receive the
highest price, buyers want to pay the lowest price. In the
standard real estate transaction, the seller pays the real estate
commission. When an agent represents both buyer and seller, the
agent can tend to negotiate more vigorously on behalf of the
seller. As a buyer, you're better off having an agent representing
you exclusively. The only time you should consider a dual agent is
when you get a price break. In that case, proceed cautiously and
do your homework!
Buying a
home without professional inspections. Unless you're buying a new home with warranties on
most equipment, it's highly recommended that you get property,
roof and termite inspections. This way you'll know what you are
buying. Inspection reports are great negotiating tools when asking
the seller to make needed repairs. When a professional inspector
recommends that certain repairs be done, the seller is more likely
to agree to do them. If the seller agrees to make repairs, have
your inspector verify that they are done prior to close of escrow.
Do not assume that everything was done as promised.
Not
shopping for home insurance until you are ready to close. Start shopping for insurance as soon as
you have an accepted offer. Many buyers wait until the last minute
to get insurance and do not have time to shop around.
Signing
documents without reading them. Whenever possible, review in advance the documents you'll be
signing. (Even though some specifics of your transaction may not
be known early in the transaction, the documents you'll sign are
standard forms and are available for review.) It's unlikely that
you'll have sufficient time to read all the documents during the
closing appointment. We can help you with your home search.
Not
allowing for delays in the transaction.
In a perfect world, all real estate transactions close on time. In
the world we live in, transactions are often delayed a week or
more. Suppose you asked your landlord to terminate your lease the
day your purchase transaction was scheduled to close. A day or two
before your scheduled closing date, you discover your transaction
is delayed a week. In a perfect world, no one is inconvenienced
and your landlord is willing to work with you. More likely,
however, your landlord is inconvenienced and angry. Will you be
thrown out? Will you have to find interim housing for a week or
more? The eviction process takes a little time, so the Sheriff
won't immediately remove you, but this type of stress-producing
episode can be avoided. How? Terminate your lease one week after
your real estate transaction is scheduled to close. That way, if
there is a delay in closing your transaction, you have some
leeway. This approach might cost a little more, then again, it
might not.
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Refinancing with your existing lender without shopping around.
Your existing lender may not have
the best rates and programs. There is a general misconception that
it is easier to work with your current lender. In most cases, your
current lender will require the same documentation as other
companies. This is because most loans are sold on the secondary
market and have to be approved independently. Even if you have
made all your mortgage payments on time, your existing lender will
still have to verify assets, liabilities, employment, etc. all
over again.
Not
doing a break-even analysis. Determine the total cost of the transaction, then calculate how
much you will save every month. Divide the total cost by the
monthly savings to find the number of months you will have to stay
in the property to break even. Example: if your transaction costs
$2000 and you save $50/month, you break even in 2000/50 = 40
months. In this case you'd refinance if you planned to stay in
your home for at least 40 months. We can help you with your
home search.
Note: This is a simplified break-even analysis. If you are
refinancing considering switching from an adjustable to a fixed
loan, or from a 30-year loan to a 15-year loan, the
analysis becomes much more complex.
Not
getting a written good-faith estimate of closing costs.
See item number four above.
Paying
for an appraisal when you think your home value may be too low.
Have the appraisal company prepare
a desk review appraisal (typically at no charge) to provide you
with a range of possible values. Your mortgage company's appraiser
may do this for you. Do not waste your money on a full appraisal
if you are doubtful about the value of your home.
Using
the county tax-assessor's value as the market value of your home.
Mortgage companies do not use the county tax-assessor's value to
determine whether they will make the loan. They use a market-value
appraisal which may be very different from the assessed value.
Signing
your loan documents without reviewing them.
See item number nine above.
Not providing documents to your mortgage company in a timely
manner. When your mortgage company asks you for additional
documents, provide them immediately. They are doing what's
necessary to get your loan approved and closed. Delays in
providing documents can result in a costly delays.
Not
getting a rate lock in writing. When a mortgage company tells you they have locked your rate, get
a written statement which includes the interest rate, the length
of the rate lock and details about the program. We can help
you with your home search.
Pulling
cash out of your credit line before you refinance your first
mortgage. Many lenders have
cash-out seasoning requirements. This means that if you pull cash
out of your credit line for anything other than home improvements,
they will consider the refinance to be a cash-out transaction.
This usually results in stricter requirements and can, in some
cases, break the deal!
Getting
a second mortgage before you refinance your first mortgage.
Many mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e.,
the first loan plus the second) when refinancing the first
mortgage. If you plan on refinancing your first loan, check with
your mortgage company to find out if getting a second will.
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Not
knowing if your loan has a pre-payment penalty clause.
If you are getting a "NO FEE" home-equity loan, chances are
there's a hefty pre-payment penalty included. You'll want to avoid
such a loan if you are planning to sell or refinance in the next
three to five years.
Getting
too large a credit line. When you
get too large a credit line, you can be turned down for other
loans because some lenders calculate your payments based upon the
available credit--not the used credit. Even when your equity line
has a zero balance, having a large equity line indicates a large
potential payment, which can make it difficult to qualify for
other loans.
Not
understanding the difference between an equity loan and an equity
line. An equity loan is
closed--i.e. you get all your money up front and make fixed
payments until it is paid if full. An equity line is open--i.e.
you can get numerous advances for various amounts as you desire.
Most equity lines are accessed through a checkbook or a credit
card. For both equity loans and lines, you can only be charged
interest on the outstanding principal balance. Use an equity loan
when you need all the money up front--e.g., for home improvements,
debt consolidation, etc. Use an equity line when you have a
periodic need for money, or need the money for a future
event--i.e. children's' college tuition in the future.
We can help you with your home search.
Not
checking the lifetime cap on your equity line.
Many credit lines have lifetime cap of 18 percent.
Be prepared to make payments at the highest potential rate.
Getting
a home-equity loan from your local bank without shopping around.
Many consumers get their equity
line from the bank with which they have their checking account. By
all means, consider your bank, but shop around before making a
commitment.
Not
getting a good-faith estimate of closing costs.
See item number four above
Assuming
that your home-equity loan is fully tax-deductible.
In some instances, your home-equity loan
is NOT tax deductible. Do not depend on your mortgage company for
information regarding this matter--check with an accountant or
CPA.
Assuming
that a home-equity loan is always cheaper than a car loan or a
credit card. Even after deducting
interest for income tax purposes, a credit card can be cheaper
than a credit line. To find out, compare the effective rate of
your home-equity line with the rate on your credit card or auto
loan.
Effective
rate = rate * (1 - tax bracket)
Example: The rate of the home-equity line is 12 percent, your tax
bracket is 30 percent, your effective rate is:12*(1-.3).12* .7
=.084 = 8.4 percent.
If your credit card is higher than 8.4 percent, the equity loan is
cheaper.
Getting
a home-equity line of credit when you plan to refinance your first
mortgage in the near future. Many
mortgage companies look at the combined loan amounts (i.e., the
first loan plus the second) when refinancing the first mortgage.
If you plan on refinancing your first, check with your mortgage
company to find out if getting a second will cause your refinance
to be turned down. Getting a home-equity line to pay off your
credit cards when your spending is out of control! When you pay
off your credit cards with an equity line, don't continue to abuse
your credit cards. If you can't manage the plastic, tear it up! We
can help you with your home search.
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